1999 toyota sienna window motor replacement

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1.0 out of 5 stars TYC 660096 Toyota Sienna Front Driver Side Replacement Power Window Regulator Assembly with Motor
Reviewed in the United States on March 27, 2019

Package or box in good condition, once opened said item was damaged. Will return the product and update this review.

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Reviewed in the United States on August 8, 2016

My Toyota dealer informed me that a heat sensor halts the window motor on purpose to prevent it from burning out or shorting the circuit. Therefore, waiting until it cools allows the motor to operate, until the sensor detects overheating again, which when too quick is good reason to replace the motor. To familiarize myself with the replacement process I watched the following two YouTube videos:

Replace Power Window Regulator on 1999 Toyota Sienna
Replacing the Power Window Motor - 2000 Toyota Sienna

The second video resolved an issue with the first video when trying to attach the lower arm to the window as a late step. I followed the suggestion to keep the lower left window arm bolted on until last during removal, and attach the two bolts on the lower left window arm first during reinstall. This made the whole process a one man operation. Here are other details I encountered that are not obvious or missing from the videos.

After removing the inside pieces of the door, the first problem I encountered was lowering the window to line up the bottom right bolt on the window arm with the hole in the door frame. My old window motor did not cooperate, which is why I replaced it. It took multiple restarts and time waiting for it to cool for the window motor to inch the window down. After the window was properly aligned, I used a PBS schedule over the top of my door frame to prevent sticky residue when I duct taped the window in place. In detaching the vapor barrier I found that the sticky black sealant did not want to come loose with the plastic, so I separated it from the door frame slowly inch by inch.

All but one of the 10mm bolts attaching the unit to the door frame is brass plated. The upper right bolt securing the window motor side to the door frame is black and pokes through a washer inside a large hole in the door frame. I loosened the bolt with a 10mm socket and gingerly lifted the washer out of the hole while still around the black bolt. After removing all but the two window bolts, the unit remains secured by a pivot axle stub poking through a journal bearing hole with a plastic (Teflon?) sleeve in the door frame, and the wire from the motor disappears trough a large hole in the door frame at the upper right while the visible end attaches to the door frame by a plastic clip with flanges top and bottom. I unclipped the wire flanges and pushed it inside the door frame, then pushed the pivot axle stub through its journal hole and the whole unit scissored downward. When I removed the last two bolts the whole unit dropped into the bottom of the door, even though I tried to hold it with one hand. The motor side, hidden behind the door frame, is much heavier. Fishing it out was awkward. I pushed it forward a little and removed the arm side first.

When I had the old unit out, I did a side by side comparison. The original unit from my 1998 Toyota Sienna looks to be made of higher quality materials and manufacture. Time will tell. I counted the number of exposed gear teeth on the old and new units and detected a difference, so I had to loosen the three 7mm bolts attaching the motor on the new unit and adjust the mounting to expose the same number of gear teeth (9 in my case). WARNING: Disengaging or detaching the motor causes the unit to scissor shut; a spiral coil spring around the pivot axle stub is the culprit. I had to pry the arms apart and jam the motor back in place. I retried this several times until I exposed the correct number of gear teeth. I found that loosening the bolts that attach the motor rather than completely removing them provided better support for this adjustment process. Installing the unit back inside the door frame was even more awkward than getting it out.

Making sure that the pivot axle stub faced me, I pushed the new unit inside the large hole at the lower left, then raised it to attach the bottom left arm to the window. After that, raising the rest of the unit works against the spiral coil spring, which I tried but failed to do from the bottom left hole. Instead I reached down through the upper right hole in the door frame and pulled the motor side up until I could poke the pivot axle stub through its journal bearing hole in the door frame. Only then was it stable enough to secure in place. I attached the motor side bolts first. Threading the washer on the black bolt through the hole in the door frame was difficult but doable. Tightening the black bolt all the way at this point made it impossible to align the bottom right bolt so I had to loosen the black bolt first. The motor side bolts then aligned and I was easily able to secured them all. However, the two bolts on the upper left arm did not align with the holes in the door frame, until I reached inside the lower left hole of the door frame and pulled down on the upper arm to counter act the spiral coil spring to bring the threaded holes into alignment with the bolt holes in the door frame where I inserted the bolts and then securely tightened all the bolts.

I fished the motor wire through the upper right hole in the door frame and clipped it in place with its flanges through a square hole in the door frame then plugged in its mate to complete the circuit. Since the window was now secure, I removed the duct tape. At this point I attached the wire connection to the door buttons and tested it. Nothing happened. I put the key into the ignition and turned on the power, but not the engine. When I tested the door button, the power window operated without a hitch. I have the AUTO button feature and it functioned properly too. I unplugged the wire connection to the buttons. At this point my hands were all greasy from handling the new unit, so I cleaned my hands and the window. Then I replaced the vapor barrier while threading the wires through their appropriate holes in the plastic sheet, including the lower wire to the door light. After I secured the inside of the door with its bottom snaps I noticed that the wire to connect the buttons was jammed inside the door, so I had to unsnap the bottom and fish the wire through the buttons hole, then I snapped the bottom of the inside door lining and reattached all the pieces I had removed from the door in the process of replacing this unit. Everything in place, I retested the buttons and the power window operated as desired.

Reviewed in the United States on August 2, 2016

I happily found this fit my 1998 Sienna van just like the original, right down to the securing snap on the electrical connector that snapped into the door like the original.
I found the information the following wiki very useful to prevent damage to my door panel parts while removing it:
[...]
There are also some good videos available on the web.

Quality appears to be as good as the original, which worked for 18 years.
You will need to be fairly handy to complete the install, but you won't need any special tools. Screwdrivers and 10mm sockets and wrenches are typically sufficient. You MAY need a T25 bit to remove your old motor to enable you to lower your window manually and align the forward window clamping bolt with its access hole if your window is completely unable to operate. That's a real pain to do, so if your window still operates intermittently or very slowly, replace the motor and regulator BEFORE it dies completely. You'll thank me for the time and aggravation you'll save. It may not have been necessary to do it the way I did. I might have been able to manage by just removing the other securing bolts and letting the whole assembly drop down, with a helper holding the window. I really don't know for sure if that would have worked or not. Still, it is easiest if you can lower the window to the appropriate position with the motor. Most of the time the failure occurs slowly, with the window struggling to go up without help, but going down fairly easily, do fix it while it is still in this condition if possible.
Also, wear gloves for safety as you work on this. There are sharp edges and spring loaded scissor action parts here that can cut you or worse.

This is a good part at a good price. Highly recommended.

Reviewed in the United States on January 4, 2016

Product was an exact match for the original part. Installation went well, and the part has been working well since then. Price seems reasonable. Bonus was that it came pre-lubricated and ready to install. A word of caution: The part does NOT come with installation instructions, so you will need a good maintenance manual to know how to do the replacement. The Instructions in the manual I got at the local Auto Parts store turned out to be incomplete, so it was a little more difficult than it should have been, but I was able to figure it out eventually. I had never replaced a power window operator unit before. Next time it will be easier. Even so, the total time to remove the inner door panel, extract the window, remove the dead power unit, install the new one, re-attach the window and replace the inner door panel, was under three hours. It's a good idea to take photos as you take everything apart, as a guide to how it all goes back together.

Reviewed in the United States on December 12, 2021

Some of these are wired in reverse, this part is not. Standard install with no issues. Sometimes these chinese window lifts fail early, sometimes not.

Reviewed in the United States on May 8, 2015

Good quality regulator, very much like the original I replaced. I also replaced passenger side one while I was at it,
also sold on amazon.
My only slight qualm is that the motor does not seem as powerful and confident on the way up as the oem was in
its glory days, but perhaps my memories are fading. (I did lubricate the rubber trails with dry lithium but still)
TYC units also appear superior match to the oem parts, unlike dorman version of the regulator which does not
have reconnecting lower bar and for which some commentators mention they dont have enough power to close
the window tight. My newly installed TYC units close as tight as original, no rain penetration just probably move
up not as fast.

Reviewed in the United States on January 15, 2021

Well crafted. Exact duplicate of original part however the motor didn’t have as much power as original older motor even after lubricating the window track. I ended reinstalling the original mechanism.

How much does it cost to replace a window motor?

How do you know if your window regulator motor is bad?